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PALACES, PAVEMENT, PLATTER- AN UNLIKELY ODYSSEY.

  • Writer: Anuja Rai
    Anuja Rai
  • Dec 5, 2023
  • 2 min read

Updated: Dec 8, 2023



Indian fruit chat seller
Bricked wall/ Anuja

Under the bright halogen glow of bulb, stands proudly, a meticulously made monument of fruits. The melodious sizzle of red potatoes on the iron tawa stands strong in the face of the deafening office traffic. It is quarter past five and the returning visitors, mostly lovebirds, of Okhla Bird Sanctuary, stand religiously near carts for their share of fruit chaat.


Jitendra is not just a chaat vendor; he is a silent storyteller, a young man pursuing Physics, navigating textbooks and chaat carts with equal diligence. All in the hope of a sarkari naukri, like many others his age. His aspirations echo in the clinking of utensils and the sizzle of aloo on a hot tava.


With finesse he chops bricks of his monument, laying them out on the luscious bed of potato sizzles with a dash of the aromatic, tangy, main character, our chaat masala.


When asked for a photo, he hesitantly says, “bina thele ke”, without the cart, please. He clearly longs to be on the other side of the cart, in midst of the travelling crowd, a life, a job.


He knows not, that the chaat he serves has been just as ambitious. It is said that when the Mughal captial shifted from Agra to Delhi, the water of Yamuna was not suited for consumption. The royal Hakim suggested adding sour ingredients to combat the double whammy of ghee and spices, popular in Mughalia cuisine. And so, the versatile chaat was birthed.


Soon, it took the world by storm, becoming a popular street staple. Some crawled their way up to elite restaurants, delicately perched upon fine china chaat platters, smugly looking down on their wilder spicy street counterparts, sitting in Jitendra’s stall.


Also check out famous chaat points of Dilli:


It is these often overlooked nooks, that silently bridge socio-economic gaps as the car owner shares joy of flavours with the humble foot-passengers. As we delve into the rich heritage of chaat, it becomes evident that it is more metaphor than food- a journey mirroring the aspirations of a young man like Jitendra. How something born out of necessity can transcend its roots, becoming a symbol of survival, progress and the unyielding spirit to live on.


He finally stands next to his monument, where he glows unabashedly now, like his aspirations.





 
 
 

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